What a pigry !
The sealing sleeve between the gearbox and the half axle is defective. How do you notice that? At the latest at the oil pool under the car, or at the smell of the burning oil on the exhaust parts. Better even more preventive during inspection, then at the beginning cracks in the rubber. But actually in this article it is only 4 small screws…
Many thanks to the companies Autoquariat and Prokschi for the production/distribution of the corresponding products.
Work: 1 hour
Cost: 35 Euro
Tool: standard, possibly Gear oil pump/injection
We distinguish two different basic types of the sealing sleeve (Slotted Rubber Boot).
The closed, one-part version No. 501.1.3425 corresponds to the original state or is installed during complete revisions.
The shared version No. 700.1.34.336.9 is intended for repair.
QUOTE Technical Communication
Source Steyr Puch, Technical Communication – November 1962 – Excerpt
Until now, it was not possible to change the sealing sleeve at the half axle without dismantling the lateral gear covers. In order to be able to carry out a quick and flawless repair of the sleeve, it was manufactured in a split form. The following operations are necessary to change the cuff:
2. Remove the broken cuff with the wire rings.
3. Insert the split seal cuff with the help of a screwdriver and leave the bump of the sleeve vertically down.
4. At the shock of the sleeve there are four holes to accommodate the clamping screws. The short clamping screws are pushed into the two middle holes, with a side plate on the head and two square nuts at the lower end. Oil the screws before assembly.
5. Tighten clamping screws until the stop and counter with two square nuts by holding them with a wrench and tightening them to the head of the screw with a screwdriver.
6. Attach the clamping bands to the sleeve in such a way that the small holes of the clamping belt are against the direction of travel.
7. Insert long clamping screws so that the square nuts come to lie on the smaller hole side. Do not tighten the clamping screws yet. Oil screws before assembly.
8. Twist the sealing sleeve in such a way that the impact comes to lie against the direction of travel and horizontally.
9. Long head screws to tighten on stop.
Note to the TM: The side plates do not exist in today’s sentences, nor is countered. Horizontal position is limited. The oiling inevitably results.
Please be careful with deposited rubber products, so-called New old stock NOS. They usually look like new even after 20-30 years. After the laborious assembly, they often only work for a few months.
The pictures of the descriptions given here can be found in the Puch 500/700 spare parts catalogue in group 2. The Haflinger is group 3.
Let’s go now!
Take a deep breath and approach the work with a motivated attitude! Very important is a relaxed posture under the vehicle and very good lighting, for example through a positionable magnetic light. It’s just a small rubber sleeve, but it’s going to be a tricky thing. A tidy, clean floor is beneficial in case something falls down. The tool and material should not be too far away and should be grasped with one hand. A helper directly at the construction site makes little sense, as the space is very cramped.
Just so that there are no misunderstandings, this work is finished in about an hour. The other variant, the complete decomposition of the axle/gearbox, takes at least one day for the Puch 500 and usually ends in another construction site, such as a new halfaxle storage. With Haflinger it gets even more intense.
This is what it should look like when we are ready:
We need a small oil pan for the gear oil. Depending on the mood of the fitter, the remaining gear oil can be drained. If it’s not too old, it can stay in it. There is muddyness and stench so and so. Those who like to wear gloves in mechanical work will certainly have discarded them until the end.
Before removing the old sleeve, clean the immediate surroundings of the axle tube and gear lid well. Now remove the spring bars of the defective sleeve. These are no longer needed and are no longer to be used after the usually violent expansion. If you want to change to the one-piece sleeve again in the future, you will get the handles again. Then cut the old man’s sleeve rubber. It is best to put a sharp pliers under tension and separate with the cutter knife.
The split sleeve is pushed around the now visible drive shaft. The open ends to be screwed look down. The ends up also works, but is harder to assemble. Then thread the tensionbands. Depending on the system, observe the different hole diameters. The recommendation of the technical communication at that time to oil and counter the screws must be decided by everyone today for himself.
After the small screws have successfully found their position, the sleeve is now slightly turned into a more horizontal position and all screws are tightened. According to TM, the impact points in the direction of travel.
Fill the gearbox oil on the large side screw, key width 22mm slowly again until it overflows. Then, if available with new seal close, finished.
- Split axle sleeve with straps and screws, 700.1.34.336.9
- 0.5-1.1 litre mineral gear oil GL 3 or 4, 80W90
- Sealing ring if required for oil drain and filling screw